Why do shelters use temperament tests?
Shelter staff use temperament tests to find out if an animal has a behavioral problem which may affect his adoption. After the test is done the staff will be better able to place the animal into an appropriate home, thereby decreasing the amount of animals returned to the shelter after adoption. If the animal is found to have a behavior issue, shelter staff will work with the animal prior to being placed in a home as well as inform the adopter about the behavior. If the behavior is too serious and the prognosis is poor, the shelter may opt to have the animal killed in order to prevent any future bites and liability issues.

Who uses these tests?
Most shelters use some form of temperament testing to evaluate the adoptability of their animals. These tests are used widely by both “kill” and no-kill shelters alike. Leaders in the movement of behavioral assessments include Emily Weiss, PhD, the creator of the “SAFER Test” and Sue Sternberg, the creator of “Assess-a-Pet.”

What kind of tests are used?
There are many temperament tests used today, however, most shelters use either the “SAFER Test,” the “Assess-a-Pet,” or some derivative of these two.

Ideally, each test is performed by shelter staff who have trained specifically to perform the test. The dog will be given a period of adjustment ranging from 3 to 5 days so that he is familiar with shelter life prior to the first test. To begin, the dog will be leashed and scanned for behavioral cues which may be a safety hazard, such as nervousness, shyness, or reactivity. If the dog is too edgy, he may be given a longer period of adjustment.

The actual testing phase has many steps, though the whole process will only take some 15 minutes. The initial steps may test the dog’s reactions to gentle handling. These include repeatedly examining the dogs teeth by lifting up his lips, hugging the dog by a gentle head lock, and gently pinching and pulling at the dog. Further phases test the dog’s reactions to children via a life-size doll and taking the dog’s bowl and treats away with a rubber hand. During such action staff assess play style, level of arousal, and ability to calm down once play has ceased followed by meeting a strange person, dog, or another animal.

Some tests will include a visit with a veterinarian to rule out any medical cause for a particular reaction. The tests may be repeated to re-evaluate the dog after behavior modification efforts or experience in a foster home.

What do the results mean?
Although it varies, most tests are designed to include wide range of possible results. Results may be graded on a scale of A-B-C-D-F, where F is considered failure. The dog is also ranked on a variety of reactions such as: allows hugging; allows but with struggle; allows but becomes tense; intense struggle; tries to bite. Results are then grouped into categories like: no restrictions; home without kids; home without other dogs; unsocial; borderline; failed; no-issue. Dogs who exhibited the most serious issues are typically candidates for euthanasia.

Do these tests work?
That depends on whom you ask. There are very few studies of “behavioral testing” and their results vary considerably. Some researchers have found behavioral differences between breeds, sexes, ages, and whether or not the animal was intact, while others have found just one or none of these differences.

The variety in results may be due to a number of variables. One problem facing researchers is that dogs’ behaviors are largely contextual, yielding different behavioral cues depending on outside influences. Dogs in shelters may have heightened stress levels due to long periods of confinement. Such stress often only worsens in time.

The results may also depend on the perspective of the people involved, be they the evaluators themselves or their adoptive parents. Behaviors considered unacceptable to one person may not be considered unacceptable to the next. The number of dogs who pass or fail these tests can differ depending on whether or not the shelter is “kill” or no-kill and their level of dedication to the cause. Some argue that shelters who are bogged-down with too many dogs and too little space may be inclined to mark more dogs as un-adoptable than those experiencing fewer of these stresses.

Some researchers however, have found that behavioral tests can significantly reduce the number of dogs returned for aggressiveness. A recent research paper, “Behavioral evaluation and demographic information in the assessment of aggressiveness in shelter dogs” by Kelley S. Bollen and Joseph Horowitz, reviewed the effectiveness of the “Assess-a-Pet” test in a shelter environment. During the study, 2017 shelter dogs were tested for aggressive tendencies. The subjects were placed into categories of “failed; unsocial; borderline; no-issue.” After placement in adoptive homes, dogs were evaluated in a 6-month follow-up via a phone interview with the adoptive parent. By implementing the behavioral tests, returns of adoptions fell from 19% the previous year to 14% and returns for aggression fell from 5% to 3.5%. Although these reductions are statistically significant, they are relatively small.

Are these tests fair?
The research mentioned may indicate a reduced return rate, but it did not (and possibly could not) fully evaluate those dogs who failed the test for aggressiveness. 796 dogs failed the evaluation and 759 of these were killed; 112 of those killed showed severe aggression on only one component of the test. It is also worthwhile to note that six dogs were killed who exhibited aggressive behaviors in their previous home, but had passed the evaluation.

“In order to be fair, a temperament test must do two things: (1) screen out aggression and (2) ensure that friendly, scared, shy, sick, or injured dogs do not get wrongly executed. By focusing on the first prong, traditional shelters have ignored the second, a violation that goes to the core of the no-kill ideal: Animals are to be judged and treated as individuals.” Nathan Winograd of The No Kill Advocacy Center.

It is clear that some of the dogs evaluated indeed exhibited aggression in their home, despite having passed the test. While such false-positives do not directly describe the tests’ propensities for false-negatives, we may suppose that dogs who failed the test may not actually have been aggressive. How many of these dogs were wrongfully killed? Do we find it acceptable to wrongfully kill a single dog? Do we find it moral or merciful to kill an animal from decisions solely contingent on a human-perceived behavior? Perhaps these are questions behavioral tests may never fully answer.

Visit The Bark Unleashed for an in-depth study of this topic.

• Jojo & his run in with Black Dog Syndrome
• BYB
• Listen and Enjoy

Although some shelters go to great lengths to get their animals ready for adoption, most do not have the space or time to provide behaviorally-challenged animals the extensive care they need. For animals with large behavior problems, arriving at a shelter may be an automatic death sentence.

This is especially true for those animals who are too aggressive to be properly cared for. Not only are they unfit for adoption, but they are also a liability to the shelter itself. Even no-kill shelters may kill a dog who is too aggressive to be handled and adopted.

Feral cats pose a considerable dilemma. Although they may be too aggressive to be placed into an adoptive home, they are also capable of living ‘wild’ in their own environment without posing a significant human risk. Instead of killing these cats, organizations such as Alley Cat Allies are dedicated to saving these animals’ lives.

Organizations save these cats by using a TNR program. TNR means ‘trap, neuter, return’ and the programs do exactly that. Volunteers catch feral cats via humane traps; then they transport the cats to facilities where they are spayed or neutered. After the surgery is complete, the cats are replaced back into their original territory to prevent recolonization by more, unaltered cats. Feral cat colonies may be taken care of by volunteers called ‘caregivers.’ Caregivers provide the colony with food and water, shelter, ongoing health care, as well as neighborly advice to the surrounding humans.

Recently, we became aware of a feral cat living under a shed in a neighbor’s backyard. She was caring for two eight week-old kittens. They were becoming more bold, leaving the shed for longer periods of time. We quickly set-out to capture the kittens and mother in order to spay and neuter. We planned to re-home the kittens while releasing the mother back into the same territory.

We were able lure one kitten, whom we call Tony, with a dangling toy. But the neighbors soon discovered the two other residents under their shed and blocked its entrance. The mother and second kitten have been roaming the streets since, making it virtually impossible for us to capture either.

Tony has been nursed back to health and grown dramatically. The Jaeger Fund is currently fostering Tony and preparing him for adoption. To learn more about his little kitten life, visit Tony’s Twitter feed.

• No Kill Conference
• BYB
• New Bill for sterilization

Winograd took the audience down the path of shelter history, informing us about how the shelter systems started out as a safe-haven for saving lives and slowly spiraled into the shelters we know today.

The current trend in animal sheltering is saving the animals we can and euthanizing the rest. Winograd rejects this idea, saying that if we were really trying our best to save lives in the first place, there wouldn’t be such a large surplus in the end. He says that in order for No-Kill shelters to work there are a number of programs that must be up and running.

• Foster care: foster parents help ease shelter crowding by taking in animals not yet ready for adoption. They provide care, housing, and training necessary to make these animals loving pets and help place them in new homes.
• TNR “Trap, Neuter/Spay, Release” program: caretakers trap feral cats living in a neighborhood, spay or neuter them, then release back into their territories. Since the cats can no longer reproduce, the population eventually declines, thereby keeping unwanted cats off the streets and out of shelters.
• Low-cost Spay/Neuter: allows low-income families to get their pets altered with little to no cost.
• Volunteers: increases the number of hands useful for cleaning, training, walking, bathing and fund-raising.
• Compassionate Director: A director that is not compassionate about saving lives simply won’t be saving enough of them.
• Adoption programs: heightens the adoption rate by keeping shelters open when people are off work, take animals off-site to get public attention, and increase public awareness by utilizing televised news stations, newspaper ads and websites. Keep animals in their new homes by making sure they are a good match for their adopters.
• Rescue Groups: takes the burden off of shelters by bringing animals into their own adoption programs.
• Retention: keeps animals in their current homes by providing medical assistance, behavioral advice, and keeps lost animals for longer periods before putting them into adoption programs.
• Rehabilitation: provides animals with medical problems proper veterinary treatment. Uses behavior modification and training to save the lives of difficult pets.
• Community Involvement: increases the amount of supporters for donations, adoptions, and other help.

Is your local shelter doing all it can to fulfill the no-kill equation?

To attend a No Kill Conference near you visit the No Kill Advocacy Center. For more information about Nathan Winograd and future talks, visit Nathan’s website.

Nathan Winograd

• Curiosity Caught The Kitten
• New Bill for sterilization
• No Kill Revolution

The Gentle Leader® is a guiding and calming aid used by TTouch®.

As more evidence is found of family-like groupings rather than strict hierarchies among dogs (see our post about dominance theory: Beating the Alpha), top trainers are moving towards methods of guidance rather than force. Perhaps the most gentle of these methods are used by so called “TTouch® practitioners.”

Originally used to train horses, the main principle behind TTouch® is calming the animal’s nerves thus allowing the animal to think and react clearly and peacefully. Its main technique is massaging movements made up of small circles along imaginary lines on all sides of the animal’s body. The circles give the animal a strong sense of body awareness and build the relationship between owner and pet.

To train a dog to respond to commands, TTouch® relies on various food rewards, lures, guides, and calming aids. With these at hand, the handler maneuvers her dog through a sort of obstacle course made up of different surfaces to walk on, poles to hop over and boards to cross. Not only does this give the dog ample socialization, but he also learns to trust his owner’s judgment while improving self-confidence.

Linda Tellington Jones, the creator of TTouch®, stresses that handlers shouldn’t expect too much from their dogs. She writes that handlers must give their dogs the opportunity to sniff, bark, chew, dig and do their doggy things by providing them with appropriate outlets within the home.

Keep watching The Jaeger Fund for more advice as we use these techniques on Jaeger and Tony.

TTouch is a registered trademark of Linda Tellington-Jones. Gentle Leader is a registered trademark of Premier.

• Problem Solving
• Insecure Pumpkin
• The Other End of the Leash

This nine year old female was adopted through the Central Ohio Greyhound Rescue.

With over 4,000 years of history behind him, the Greyhound is one of the most ancient breeds of dog still seen today. His long lineage can be traced back to ancient Egypt where his athleticism and kind personality made him both companion and hunter. Throughout time he was favored by noblemen and royalty and has since found himself in almost every country on the globe.

In America the Greyhound has become a sports icon for gamblers, producing thousands of dogs each year for racing. Although racing has been on the decline, there are still forty-six tracks operating within 15 states, each of which is constantly displacing dogs through retirement.

A female ex-racer available through Team Greyhound.

The Central Ohio Greyhound Rescue is one of many organizations throughout the US that are saving these dogs’ lives. Their organization is made up entirely of volunteers who foster dogs in their own homes. Most of COGR’s rescues come from tracks in Florida, where gambling is still in high demand, while others may come from tracks in West Virginia or have been surrendered as pets.

The female pictured above shows off her registration number through the National Greyhound Association.

Track dogs are born on a “farm” where the owner distinguishes which pups will make the better racer. Dogs that make the final cut are sent off to a trainer where they build muscle and speed. Most dogs will be retired between the ages of 2 to 5, with the fastest dogs being kept the longest.

Although bred for speed, the racing hound spends most of his day inside a crate and is let out at regular intervals to stretch his legs. Therefore, they come into rescue already crate trained, which makes house training rather easy. This also means that ex-racers are quite docile and easy-going. In fact, they are known throughout COGR as “couch potatoes” and spend most of the day sprawled out for a puppy nap.

This handsome male was adopted through the Central Ohio Greyhound Rescue.

It’s hard to believe that a dog that has spent its life chasing mechanical rabbits would make a good companion for a housecat or Yorkie, but many ex-racers do. COGR tests all of their rescues with cats before going into a new home. They report that some 70% of ex-racers aren’t interested in chasing cats within the home. However, like most hounds, ex-racers may chase something that they see dash across the yard. The only difference is that, with these hounds, they’ll catch it! So keep the kitties inside and your fence secure.

As you can tell by our photos, greyhounds come in all sizes and colors, giving quite the variety to choose from. We’ll warn you though - they have velvet-soft fur, sparkling eyes and charming personalities that will win the hearts of every dog lover. Luckily Greyhounds seem to love other Greyhounds, so you’ll know it’ll be a good match when you come back for your second ex-racer!

To rescue a Greyhound near you please visit:

• Central Ohio Grehound Rescue
• Team Greyhound Adoption of Ohio, Inc.

• The first foster
• Insecure Pumpkin
• Curiosity Caught The Kitten

In a lot of ways, Tom Regan’s book Empty Cages is an animal rights activist’s “membership guide” for new activists, aiding the unknowing in constructing arguments and reasons for protecting the rights of the sentient beings around us. For long-time ARAs, however, there may be little to gain.

Regan begins by identifying the qualities of ARAs, and thankfully does not overgeneralize but  describes the whole range of approaches and beliefs. In order to aid self-identification, perhaps for new activists, he explains three reasons a person becomes an activist for animals:

• A DaVincian has a natural empathy towards animals from early childhood
• A Damascan has a sudden revelation of animal suffering at some point in his or her life, before which animal rights was not important, after which animal rights are critical
• A Muddler learns and experiences smaller revelations over a longer period of time, eventually reaching the same conclusions about animal rights and their primacy that DaVincians always knew and Damascans realize in an instant

While of little use to seasoned animal rights activists, these three archetypes may help a wavering potential-activist reach a conclusion (”I’m a Damascan!“) and join the discussions to follow.

The majority of the book follows, and includes a (novel?) argument for the necessity of rights for animals and a wide-ranging but cursory examination of current issues relevant to ARAs. We’ll quickly look at Regan’s argument for the necessity of animal rights below.

In a pragmatic reduction of the metaphysical differences between humans and other animals, Regan explains that animals with brains, nervous systems, and the like have self-interest, that is, strive to avoid suffering, “whether anyone cares about this or not.” That is to say, in an Ockham’s razor-wielding fashion, many animals are aware of the world, have an interest in what happens to their own self in this world, whether anyone cares about this or not. “We” are all “subjects-of-a-life” (in a “Sartre-ing” coinage), morally equal and the same, with no species higher or lower than another.

This is why, in his formulation, humans and most animals have rights, but not, say, sticks and stones, or plants.

Unfortunately, due to the limitations of his pragmatism and oversimplification, he omits the same respect towards insects and spiders, reptiles, amphibians, and even fish. Really, only mammals and birds apply, at least in Empty Cages. Regan is apologetic about such a limitation, but finds it necessary in order to keep his arguments easy to digest, perhaps for fledgling activists.

In all, Empty Cages is a laudable tidying-up and packaging of the hairy issues surrounding and penetrating animal rights activism. It is recommended for newcomers and the unsure, but the “real issues” facing animals today and the real psychological barriers present in our society need a stronger social critique, inclusion of the “edge cases”, and a guiding philosophy with, frankly, a little more meat.

• Get the word out!
• No Kill Revolution
• Grading Prognosis

One of the people gets out of the river and begins running upstream. “Where are you going?” his friends shout. “I’m going to find out who’s throwing babies in the river and make them stop!” he yells back, as he heads upstream.

The homeless animal problem is a lot like that. Animal shelters and rescue groups try hard to save the homeless animals in the river. But that will never solve the problem. Real, lasting solutions to the homeless animal problem involve stopping them from being thrown in the river in the first place.

One at a Time: A Week in an American Animal Shelter

Diane Leigh and Marilee Geyer

• Volunteer
• New Bill for sterilization
• The Power of a Sanctuary

When looking for a new companion you may be inclined to take a look through the newspaper classifieds or browse amongst the many ads on the internet. By looking at these sources you will find a large selection of animals that are in need of a new home. In fact, there may be so many ads that it will be hard to make the final selection. Be aware that not all sources are equal and although each ad may seem the same in quality you can be looking at ads from puppy mills, their brokers, or backyard breeders.

Many of these breeders can be picked out through advertisements clearly aimed at making money off of selling lots of pups. Here are some examples to look out for:

• “don’t miss your chance to own”
• “very cute”
• “must see”
• “very flashy”
• “Reduced price for limited time”
• “cash only”
• “call now!”
• Anything which does not fit the breed standard (odd colors, size etc.)
• More than one breed is listed on the ad
• “non-allergenic/shedding”
• “no odor”
• Be careful with ads which use clever names to sell mixes (Shihpoo, Yorkiepoo, Yochon, etc.)

On the flip side, here are some good things to search for:

• “health guaranteed”
• “parent(s) on site”
• Proper health tests such as “parents tested OFA Excellent, CERF and vWD clear”
• “microchipped”
• “for approved homes only”
• “shots and wormed”

Always make sure to check that the ad is accurate, that the parents and environment the pup grew up in are clean and well-kept and that the puppy is checked by a veterinarian before purchase.

You may also find ads for adoptable animals, but make sure it is through an organization. Some “adopt me” ads are placed by puppy mill brokers in attempts to get rid of the last dog in exchange for an adoption fee. Although you may be able to pay the fee and save the dog, your money will only go back to the people who run the mill, thereby encouraging them to continue breeding dogs. By going to an animal shelter and picking out a dog in person, you can make sure that your money was well spent.

• Reputable Breeders
• Puppy Mill
• BYB

Now that the temperature outside is starting to climb you may be finding it more difficult to get your dog out without fear of him suffering heat exhaustion. This is a serious concern for dog owners, as the signs of heat exhaustion for dogs can come too late, rapidly turning into an emergency situation.

Luckily for us, most dogs seem to have an affinity for water, be it a small kiddie pool worth or an entire lake. Even those dogs who don’t care for water much can often be coaxed in to get their feet wet.

In preparation for the water fun ahead, we’ve put together some helpful guidelines:

• Make the experience in the water a good one by providing treats, toys and fun.
• Don’t force your dog into the water, as this may result in a lifetime fear.
• Start in the shallow end. Lots of dogs will not know how to swim properly at first, so take it slow.
• If your dog struggles, try helping it along by supporting it’s belly while it swims.
• Consider purchasing a doggie life jacket for long swims or those who struggle.
• Avoid “water freaking” (where your dog starts swimming and doesn’t come back) by rewarding your dog for staying close by, teaching it a solid “come” command, and keeping the doggie life jacket secured. 
• Consider teaching your adoptable to swim, as a water dog is a fun dog!

Water games!

Water Toss: The easiest way to teach this game is by starting off on land. For these exercises you can follow the training for “fetch”. Once your dog is joyfully retrieving via land start tossing the toy close to the waters edge, then ease your dog further into the water by increasing the distance thrown from shore. If your dog ever balks at a certain distance, throw the toy at the distance before that one and proceed more slowly. You’ll want to start with water that is shallow and without waves to begin with, such as the shore of a lake, a kiddie pool, or try some playtime with your pup in the bathtub. Once your dog gets the hang of this, start tossing the toy in erratic directions. You can do the long toss for deeper swimming, the right-over-the-head toss to get your dog to leap from the water, or the random toss so your dog has to find out where it landed.

Bobbing Doggie: This is an easy and fun game to teach your pooch by utilizing a kiddie pool, bath tub, or even a bowl of water. Start with some food that your dog likes which floats in water (like popcorn, bread or ice). Toss the food near the waters edge to entice your dog to play the game, then toss it into shallow water. Most dogs will go for the food, picking it right off the top of the water. If your dog doesn’t, try tossing it back on land some more and ease your dog into the water slower than before. Once your dog is quickly grabbing the food off the top of the water toss some food which is more dense, such as a dog biscuit. This food will sink more and require your dog to dump his nose in a bit in order to get it. If your dog balks at this point, try a higher value treat and/or one that is less dense to ease your dog in. Once your dog is dipping in you can start using treats which sink to the bottom, coining a word for the action such as “dunk” or “get’um” or whatever you like. Make the game interesting by switching rewards between various foods and toys, tossing them erratically to make your dog search for them or filling up a kiddie pool full of toys and treats and letting your dog have at it.

• Powerful Playtime
• Meg’s regimen
• The first foster

Ever wonder why your pooch is so darn playful?

According to a Discovery News article, a recent study shows that dogs are so adapted to living with us that their urge to play overrides some of their other instincts. The study indicates that dogs are willing to put aside their fear of strangers when inticed with their favorite game. This trait is so widespread that it occured in all the dogs used in the study, regardless of breed or sex.

Though this trait is quite maladaptive for wild-living animals, it is an advantage for those of us who take part in the rehabilitation of fearful shelter dogs. The study found that dogs which play most often were less fearful and more motivated. In fact, the researcher tells us that “the more [owners] play with their dogs, and we mean the more types of games as well, the better.”

So? On with the games!!

Fetch: Start with items that are easy and inticing to catch. These most likely will be soft and light toys, perhaps ones that squeak and make odd noises. Basically, find a toy that your dog likes and is driven to play with. Intice your dog to fetch that toy by playing a game of tug or keep-away and then tossing it just a few feet to the side. Get your dog to bring the toy back by pulling another fun toy out of your back pocket. This toy will need to at least be as fun as the toy your dog already has, but the more fun it is the better. Encourage your dog to drop the toy he has by playing with the second toy and making a big fuss over it. Most dogs will drop the toy they have for the prospect of playing with the toy that you’re having fun with. You can simply switch off which toy you throw. If your dog prefers to keep his original toy, try using treats to encourage your dog to drop it for you, then resume playing with that one. Keep the game fun by tossing the toy further away and in odd directions.

Catch Me: This game encourages your dog to follow your lead and stick close to you. Start by grabbing a favored toy, those that make sounds are typically the best. Stick the toy in your pocket (big sweater pockets work) or hide it in your hands behind you. Walk non-chalantly beside your dog and when he is not looking, give the toy a squeak. When your dog looks up to you say “good” and pull the toy out of your pocket. With an excited, high pitched voice, encourage your dog to follow you around by luring him with the toy, squeaking it all the while. Only let your dog grab the toy when he is next to you, and keep your hand locked to the other end. Run all over the yard in erratic movements, then give an “okay” and replace the toy into your pocket. Wait until your dog is distracted and squeak the toy again to resume the game.

Find It: For this game you will need some treats your dog loves and that have a distinct smell. Start by showing your dog a treat and (while the dog is looking) hide the treat under something that is obvious (like a cushion). Tell your dog to “find it” in a happy voice and let him go for the treat. If your dog does not go for it at first, help him out by lifting the cushion up. Repeat this exersize until your dog is happily diving for the treat, and then upgrade to putting the treat in a variety of spots. Once your dog is confident in his treat-searching skills try putting your dog in another room and hiding a treat in one of the spots you had hidden a treat before. Let your dog loose and encourage him to “find it”. You might have to help your dog by standing close to where you hid the treat, or even by showing where it is directly. Once your dog is happily finding treats throughout the house you can vary the reward by using less smelly treats and toys; just remember to always keep it exciting and help your dog out when needed. This is a great game to play with dogs who are timid in odd situations because you can hide a treat anywhere and encourage your dog to find it.

Soccer Dog: This game requires a toy that is too big for your dog to pick up and also rolls, such as a soccer ball or basketball. Start by putting a treat right next to the base of the ball and encourage your dog to “roll it” by letting him take the treat. After a number of trials try telling your dog to “roll it” without putting the treat down. If your dog goes to the ball and looks for the treat, reward him excitedly and move on to the next step. This time, put a treat down, but even closer to the base of the ball and tell your dog to “roll it” to get the treat. Repeat this exercise by putting the treat closer to the ball until it is completely underneath it. When your dog goes for the treat, he will knock the ball causing it to roll. Repeat this until you can say “roll it” and your dog rolls the ball even without any treats underneath. Reward your dog for rolling the ball with treats from your own hand from then on. Vary the lengths and repititions of rolls that will get rewards and try rolling the ball back and forth between you and your dog.

Hide n’ Go Seek: This game encourages your dog to come find you when you call him Start by standing a few feet from your dog and calling him using his name and a command, such as “Fido, come” in a happy voice. Reward your dog with treats, praise, or a toy as soon as the dog reaches your hand. Repeat this exercise by calling your dog from increasingly further distances, making a fuss over him for a job well done. Once your dog is good at this try calling from a doorway, then behind the door, encouraging your dog to find you by using a high-pitched voice. Increase the complexity of your hiding spots as your dog gets better at finding you. If your dog ever has trouble finding your spot, try tossing a treat close-by to encourage him to look there.

Fun Time: For games that don’t require any training you can try simply enticing your dog to chase and play with odd objects. Some dogs enjoy splashing about in pools, jumping after tether balls, catching snowballs, and chasing after bubbles. Finding the right game is all about finding the things that you and your dog both enjoy - there’s no limit!

• Take that Gator for a swim
• Meg’s regimen
• Teach it!